Keeping classic and vintage vehicles healthy: fuel and ethanol, lead replacement, brakes, oil choice and winter storage.
All classic & vintage articles, newest first ↓
A stage-by-stage chassis restoration guide for classics, Land Rovers, 4x4s and vans: assessing the chassis, stripping and salt removal, weld-through primer, zinc and epoxy primers, Epoxy Mastic, seam sealing and cavity wax.
How to run in a rebuilt classic engine: assembly lube, mineral running-in oil, 500 miles at peak torque, why not to use synthetic oil, and when to change it.
Which oil to use in classic lever-arm shock absorbers and SU or Stromberg carburettor dampers, and how to top them up for better ride and cleaner acceleration.
GL-1, GL-4 and GL-5 explained for classic cars: which oil for your gearbox, hypoid or limited-slip differential and steering box, and why yellow metals matter.
Why the classic Mini needs its own oil, which Millers or Penrite oil suits a standard, tuned or race Mini, and the right oils for modern MINIs.
Which oil for your classic or vintage engine? ZDDP, detergent vs non-detergent and grades explained, with the right Millers and Penrite oil for every era.
Millers VSPe Power Plus vs Castrol Valvemaster — an honest comparison of the two best lead replacement additives. Both protect valve seats and E10; here is the difference.
A 12-step winter lay-up checklist for classic cars and bikes in Ireland: fuel, oil, coolant, rust protection, brakes, tyres, battery and storage, plus what to do in spring.
Does your classic need a lead replacement additive, and how do you beat E10 ethanol damage? A plain-English Irish guide plus the right Millers treatment.
DOT 5 silicone brake fluid never needs changing and will not strip paint – but it is not DOT 5.1, not for ABS, and must never be mixed with normal fluid. An honest guide.
E10 petrol is standard at Irish pumps, but its ethanol can harm older and classic engines. What it does, which cars are at risk, and how to protect yours.
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